19 New Travel Trailer "NEEDS" To Have & Know About
You Finally Got Your Own Travel Trailer....NOW WHAT?
Having your own Camper is a truly freeing experience. You have the means to travel when and where you want to in comfort. Not to mention, you have a secure place to store and have all your personal items with you.
It’s exciting to think about. Like moving into your first apartment or first house. You get to set it up the way you want. Decorate it in the style of your choosing. Pick out all the best gear to make you the envy of the campground.
However, there are things that you absolutely need to have and need to know how to use before you hit the road on your first Camping Adventure. Let me say that again. You “NEED” to Have and Know how to use.
Many blogs just list out a ton of items of what you should get, then leave it up to you to decide if it is truly something you need or even how to properly use it.
After searching many different blogs, and websites, along with speaking with other Travel Trailer owners, I have found that these are the must haves for your Camper Trailer in order for you to get started and have it operating the way that it is intended for.
Yes many things on this list are a given and may already be included with your purchase of your New Camper. Just know though that with out these “Things” you would not be able to Tow your New Camper Trailer anywhere and Hook it up and use it SAFELY without these items.
The 19 Things You "NEED"
Table of Contents:
Feel Free To Click On An Item To Skip Right To It.
The Ball
Hopefully by now you should know that you need a Ball & Hitch in order to Tow your new camper. But did you know that the different Ball sizes and Hitches are sized proportional to the use and weight of the Trailer you will be towing?
Without getting into too much detail about every style, and type of Ball & Hitch I will simply give a quick summary and reference links. This way if you require more information, you have some good reliable places to check out.
Here is a quick reference chart showing the different Ball sizes to Gross Towing Weights (GTW).
If you are really looking for a deep dive into Trailer Ball sizes and more, here is a great website to refer to:
The Hitch
Currently, most heavy-duty trucks and SUVs already come with a standard receiver hitch in the rear but there are still many other types that can be added. Seven to be exact.
As mentioned, rear receiver hitch is by far the most common type of hitch. This type of trailer hitch can be used for towing a trailer along with many other uses. The classic rear receiver hitch has a square receiver tube that you insert a wide variety of things into. Since the receiver is a simple square tube, the options for applications are almost endless. When it comes to mounting, these hitches mount directly to the frame of the vehicle in the rear. The weight ratings for these are based off a 5 class scale with 1 being the most light-duty and 5 being the most heavy-duty. Something that also varies with the rating of the hitches is the size of the receiver tube. The three primary sizes for the receiver tubes are 1 1/4″ x 1 1/4″, 2″ x 2″, or 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″. Generally speaking, as the rating of the hitch goes up so does the size of the receiver tube. However, there are some hitches that do not follow that perfectly, so it is always safe to double check.
If you are interested in taking the time to learn more about the different classes of Hitches and their uses, here is a link to follow:
Sway Bars with Weight Distribution
Are Sway Bars really a necessary item or are they one of those gimmicky type “Add On” items that salespeople like to try and get you to buy? Well, the answer can is absolutely “YES” & “NO”. You do not necessarily Need a Sway Bar for your Camper Trailer. However, as soon as you feel your big investment start to sway back and forth as you are driving down the road, you are going to second guess yourself for sure.
Simple as it sounds, Sway Bar hitches help to stiffen and lessen the back-and-forth swaying motion your trailer might experience. Either from strong gusts of wind, passing Semi-Trucks or other larger vehicles, or even improper weight distribution.
Speaking of weight distribution, some sway bar hitches contain an integrated weight distribution mechanism which helps to distribute the “Tongue Weight”. Basically this means in addition to bars on either side of the ball hitch, there is also another one underneath which extends further back. This helps to prevent any “Sag” between the trailer and the tow vehicle. This basically helps to keep the trailer more level when in tow. Again, not a necessary item to include, but something to think about if you have a larger trailer.
Of course you can learn more about Sway Bars and Weight distribution here:
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# 2: Safety Chains
It's The Law
This again might be a “No Brainer” for most people or an already supplied mechanism on most Camper Trailers (Excluding 5th Wheel & Goose Neck Trailers).
The reasoning I have put this on a “Need” list is because it is the “LAW” to have these attached when towing your Camper Trailer. As Stated on the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration, DOT 393.71; “The hook or other means of attachment to the towing vehicle shall be secured to the chains or cables in a fixed position.”
Do It The Right Way
The purpose of safety chains is to prevent the trailer from separating from the tow vehicle in event of a hitch failure, such as a hitch ball that has loosened.
They should be attached in a crisscross pattern underneath the coupler to provide a sort of cradle. If the coupler ever becomes disconnected from the ball, the crisscrossed chains are intended to catch the coupler.
Each safety chain should be rated to meet or exceed the gross trailer weight, and they should not touch the ground when attached.
Most chains and hooks that are already supplied by the manufacturer should meet the regulated weight threshold, however if you have any questions about them, be sure to ask or find out. Worst case scenario you can purchase Heavier Duty Chains and Self-Locking Clip Hooks from a reputable supplier. Please DO NOT just go to a Big Box hardware store to purchase any size chain and hooks unless you are familiar with the Tension Breaking Strength Grade of each chain and hook.
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# 3 Vehicle Wiring Harness
Travel Safe
Any vehicle towing a trailer requires a trailer wiring harness to safely connect the taillights, turn signals, brake lights and other necessary electrical systems. You know, all the things to keep you and your home on wheels safe when traveling. Again, this is why a functioning a wiring harness is a “Need” for your new Camper Trailer.
Along with checking the lights and turn signals every time you hook up, you should be sure to inspect the wire harness itself. In time, these connectors may become corroded or damaged and may cause problems which will require you to clean, fix or replace it. All these parts can be bought online. Various trailer wiring connectors are available ranging from Four to Seven pins. All of which allow power transfer to your trailer. Really and truly it all depends on your vehicle, trailer, and personal preference.
Which One Is Right For You?
You should only choose a connector that has the requisite number of pins required for the particular functions available on your trailer. The connectors that are available are 4-Way, 5-Way , 6-Way, 7-Way, etc. Each connector wiring diagram and color coding is different so be sure to do your research before you start working on your wiring harness.
Here is a quick a simple diagram to reference but again, for more in depth guides on the different wiring systems and diagrams available; please check online, consult a professional or use the reference links below:
Reference Links: For Trailer Wiring
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# 4 Propane Tanks with Regulator
Got GAS?
Most people overlook the importance of their propane tanks and regulator on their brand new (or used) Camper. If you think about it, propane tanks are a main part of the nerve center of your Camper Trailer or RV. They provide the fuel used to keep you warm on those chilly nights, make sure you have hot water to do the dishes or take a comfortable shower, provide fuel to cook your food or keep it cool in the refrigerator if your trailer is set up for it. So having good propane tanks and knowing a little bit about them is why this is a “Need” for your Camper Trailer.
What Type Do You Need?
Lets start off with the two main types of propane tanks. ASME Tanks and DOT Cylinders.
ASME Tanks are generally found on motorhomes and are certified by the American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME). These tanks are secured to the frame of the motorhome and are not removable.
DOT Cylinders are used on travel trailers, fifth wheels, truck campers, and some small motorhomes. These are approved by the Department of Transportation (DOT). These cylinders may be mounted in exterior compartments or propane tank holders on the tongue or bumper of the trailer.
Keep It Safe....Regulate
Propane tank regulators play an even more important role than the fuel itself. Even if your tanks are full and ready to go, if your regulator is faulty then there is no way for the fuel to be regulated out safely to the rest of the components in your trailer. Keeping you from, well you know, Blowing Up! So I would say having a High-Quality Regulator on your tanks is important.
Without going into too much detail on this list of things you Need. Here are some Very Useful Links you should take time to read about Propane Tanks, Gauges, and Regulators. Working with Propane tanks is not very complicated, however because they play such a crucial role in our providing many of our creature comforts, and their potential at causing great harm if not respected properly, it would be very wise to familiarize yourself with everything you can about them.
Reference Links: For Propane Tanks
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# 5 Jack Stand & Leveling Blocks
First off, I realize that not every Camper Trailer is going to have Stabilizer Jacks located at both the front and Rear of the Camper built in. However, your Camper Trailer is probably going to have some sort of Jack Stand at the “Tongue” of the Trailer.
Why do you “Need” Jack Stand & Leveling Blocks?
Most campgrounds you go to will require some sort of barrier between the Jack Stands and ground. Even if the surface is paved over. The reason behind this is twofold. One is to protect the ground and Two to protect your camper. These Blocks provide such a barrier.
They protect the ground by providing a larger surface area to help to distribute the weight of your Camper. Preventing the Jack Stand or Stabilizer Jacks from sinking into the ground causing divots and holes. Even when parked on pavement, the weight and pressure of the Camper on the Jack Stands can cause cracking and holes. Think of each stand like little “Jack Hammers” on the pavement or ground. Even with tiny movements from you walking around in the Trailer or the wind rocking it, they will slowly dig themselves in further into the ground.
Keep It Level
These “Blocks” are also used as “Leveling Blocks”. Not all campgrounds or campsites for that matter have completely level surfaces for you to park on. Even in Nebraska! You use these blocks to place under your wheels or your stabilizer jacks to help level out your Trailer. Not only does this make sure that you don’t slide off the bed when your sleeping, food falling out of the refrigerator, or cabinets when you open them, but MOST importantly makes sure your Black & Grey water storage tanks hold their contents properly and don’t back up into the camper at all. Of course, for that to happen you have to be VERY unlevel, but still something to think about.
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# 6 Bubble Level
What is a Bubble Level?
A bubble level (or “spirit level”, “torpedo level”, or “line level”) is a sealed tube that contains a solution that moves a bubble to the center of the instrument to indicate when something is horizontally level and/or vertically plumb.
When leveling any object using a bubble level, the bubble contained in the vial should move to the center between the perpendicular lines.
If the bubble is centered, then your Camper or RV (or any surface) is level in that direction.
If the bubble is off-center, then the Camper or RV (or other surface) needs to be raised or lowered until the bubble is sitting in the center of the level.
Why Do You “NEED” a Bubble Level?
As mentioned before with Jack Stand & Leveling Blocks, having your Camper or RV Level is important for your comfort. It makes sure you have proper drainage, proper functioning slides (if applicable), things don’t fall out of the refrigerator or cabinets when you open them, and of course over all comfortable livability in your Camper or RV.
How Do You Make Sure Your Camper or RV is Level?
With these Leveling Bubbles of course. There are plenty to choose from on the market today. Some are super complex, heavy duty, and overall fool proof. Others are simply small bubble tubes that you stick on.
Which ever style, or brand you prefer the concept is the same. You want to make sure you have one that measures the level from Front to Back and another to measure the level Side to Side. That’s it. Of course when you place them on your Camper or RV, you should make sure to place them in a location that is easy to read for you or anyone helping you to Level everything out.
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# 7 Wheel Blocks or Chocks
What Are They?
Simply put, they are typically wedge-shaped blocks or ramps that are placed either in-front of or behind the wheels. Depending on the natural slope of the ground. Preferably both!
Note: It is also important to understand that simple square blocks placed in-front of or behind the wheels, no matter how heavy, can still be pushed by the weight of the Camper. The “Wedge” shape incorporates both the natural weight of the Trailer and Gravity to keep the wheels from rolling.
Why They Are A "NEED"?
Wheel Blocks or Chocks are especially important for your Camper Trailers because they do not have and internal parking brake to keep them from potentially rolling away.
Even if you keep your Camper attached to your vehicle when parked, it is still important to use wheel blocks or chocks because the parking brake system on your vehicle is not typically calibrated for the additional weight and it can brake loose causing both your vehicle and trailer to start rolling a way.
When you are parked on seemingly level ground and your Stabilizer Jacks and Jack Stands are down, the natural rocking movements of people walking around inside your Camper or wind blowing can cause minute movements in the wheels over time. If wheel blocks or chocks are not used, too much movement in any direction will inevitably lead to the Stabilizer Jacks and Jack Stand to fail, break loose and your Camper will have the potential of rolling off. If it doesn’t, you still are having to deal with broken Jacks. Which is a headache no one wants.
How Many & What Kind Do You Use?
How many you use and what kind is going to be completely up to you. Most manufacturers recommend putting them both in-front and behind the wheels on both sides, however with larger Camper Trailers or RV’s with multiple axles, it is a good idea to have chocks between the sets of tires as well.
Which ever way you choose, try not go with the cheap plastic wheel ramp blocks. Although they may be cheaper and lighter, that typically means they will not stand the test of time and have the potential of slipping or breaking under the weight of your Trailer. Look for high quality, durable Rubber, Synthetic, or Aluminum wheel chocks. These will handle the weather better and typically last the lifetime of your Camper. If not longer.
What About "X-Chocks"?
Many Campers have expressed that they only use the “X- Chocks” when they are parked at a campsite. The X-chock fits between the tires and then it is tightened so it expands and creates pressure against the tires. However, the manufacturers of X-chocks say NOT to use them as wheel chocks for your trailer. Which means they will not prevent your trailer from moving down a slope. They are really just meant to limit the movement of the trailer or 5th wheel while you are walking around inside. Not to mention, if used improperly or tightened to much, they can cause damage to your tires which could lead to “Blowouts” while in tow. Again, this is nothing any of us want to experience.
This does not mean X-chocks should not be used. It is simply an added security feature used along with wheel blocks than can be used when you are parked at your campsite. As I always say, Two is One and One is None. Better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it. The choice is completely up to you.
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# 8 Power Cord(s)
Keeping You Charged and Ready To Go
Very much like propane tanks, power cords are one of the most overlooked “NEED” when people think about their Camper. Why? My guess is because electricity is pretty much in a constant supply in our everyday lives, that we really don’t give it too much thought. That is until the power goes out or we go somewhere that doesn’t have it. Like…let me think…I don’t know….Camping? Uh weird!
Having the ability to supply power to your Camper should be one of the biggest thing on your list. It is probably one of the main reasons you have decided to buy a Camper Trailer. There is something about having many of the creature comforts of home, right there in the Great Outdoors that makes your world spin a little slower.
Quick Reminder of some typical electrical terminology and what they mean.
Amperage (amp); (measure the electrical current, or the volume (not speed) of electrons present)
Volts (V); (represent the speed at which electrons pass a specific point in a closed system)
Watts (W); (is the rate of power flow)
Using a garden hose analogy, Amperage is the size of the hose. Volts are like the water pressure from the house, and Watts is how much water is flowing through the hose at any given time.
What do you need to know?
Each Camper Trailer will have its own power supply requirements, so you will have to refer to the owner’s manual to know what size cord you are going to need. If it doesn’t already come with one. Good news is that there are only Three typical sizes used.
15 amp power cord
If you’ve ever used a home power cord before, you’re familiar with the 15-amp variety. These plugs have three prongs, two narrow vertical ones with a circular ground wire beneath.
While very familiar to the average person, they’re also the least common for use in Campers and RVs. The reason for this is simple. They just can’t provide as much power as most Camper Trailers require. They’ll generally be used by small campers or van-style rigs when you do find them. OR, for when larger Trailers are needing to plug into shore power which only supplies 15 amp. Even then, they’ll most likely use an adapter. (More on that later.)
For a typical 15 amp cord plugged into a 120 volt power supply you can only get about 1,800 watts of power. (15A x 120V = 1,800W) Not a whole lot of power to use.
30 amp power cord
This is the next step up. These cords are physically larger than the 15 amp cords and have the ability to carry more power. They have two flat slanted prongs with one rounded. One flat prong is “hot” the other is “neutral” and the rounded one is the “ground”.
For a typical 30 amp cord plugged into a 120 volt power supply you can get about 3,600 watts of power. (30A x 120V = 3,600W) Much more power available for use.
50 amp power cord
A 50-amp power cord (for larger Campers and RVs) has four prongs that correspond to TWO 120-volt hot wires, a neutral wire, and a ground wire. Even though it’s called a 50-amp connection, it actually supplies two separate 50-amp, 120-volt feeds.
As a result, a 50-amp feed brings a total of 12,000 watts into your RV with 6,000 watts from each hot wire.
Camper & RV power cords typically come in 25’ and 50’ lengths which usually sufficient for most situations, however if you require a different length you should be able to find them online.
Campgrounds that do offer electrical hook ups, typically have pedestals that offer 15/20 amp and 30-amp hook ups. This may not always be the case though. So, what do you do if you require a 50-amp outlet and they only have 30 amp? Or if your Camper requires a 30-amp outlet and they only supply a 15/20-amp outlet? Or any combination of the three? Well, there is a solution for that. Onto the next item on your Need list.
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# 9 Adapters
Sometimes You Just Need To Adapt
An Adapter is an also “Need” when you acquire a Camper Trailer. They allow you to plug your Camper into a power outlet that might not be set up to accept the power cord used for your Camper. These adapters are also sometimes called “Dog Bones” or “Puck” Adapters.
Dog Bone Adapter
A “Dog Bone” style adapter has the two adapter plugs separated by a short, heavy-duty cord (making them LOOK like a dog’s bone). These will often have a molded handle on one side to make plugging it into, and removing it from, the power pedestal easier.
Let’s use the example of plugging a 30-amp RV into a 15/20-amp power pedestal using a “Dog Bone” adapter.
You’d plug your RV’s 30-amp power cord into the female end of the “Dog Bone” adapter, and then you’d plug the other end of the “Dog Bone” into the 15/20-amp service outlet.
Everything in the RV will have access to power… but, again, just be sure that you don’t try to run too many 120-volt devices at once, or you’ll end up tripping the breaker at the pedestal.
Puck Adapter
Puck adapters work like “Dog Bone” adaptors by converting your RV’s plug to a different size/style. They’re a single small unit (like a small hockey puck) that has the necessary female outlet and male prongs to make the conversion, but don’t have the short length of cable to connect the two plugs, like a “Dog Bone” style adapter does.
To use it, you’d connect your RV’s power cord to one side of the puck adapter and plug the other end into the power pedestal (or an electrical outlet at your home).
Puck-style adapters are convenient to use because of their smaller size but have more limited options than “Dog Bones” do, generally being limited to 30-to-15 amp connections.
So far, I have only discussed adapting ‘down’, but you can also adapt ‘up’ if you need to. A simple search online and you will be able to find whatever you need. However, you do not “NEED” an adapter for every situation out there. Typically you just need one suited for a step ‘down’ from the amp cord your camper requires.
Even though most places go through rigorous inspections you can NEVER be sure that the power pedestal you plug into are safe. As for protecting your Home Away from Home from weird power surges from electrical storms or those weird power “hiccups” that happen, you also “Need” the next item on my list.
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#10 A Surge Protector
Keeping Your Electronics SAFE
A Camper or RV surge protector is meant to protect your electrical system from power surges or poorly maintained power pedestals in campgrounds. A power pedestal may have faulty wiring, too-low voltage, or frequent power surges (including but not limited to lightning strikes). Any of these things can damage your RV’s electrical system.
In their simplest form, a surge protector plugs directly into the campground’s electrical service pedestal. You then plug your RV’s power cord into the other end of the surge protector. The surge protector acts as an intermediary or buffer for the power flowing between the campground’s pedestal and your Camper or RV… and will most often provide diagnostic lights/indicators to tell you if it detects something wrong with the park’s wiring.
The surge protector essentially monitors the power coming out of the pedestal before it gets to your RV so that if anything abnormal occurs, it won’t damage your Camper or RV’s electronics.
Again, I did not go into full detail about Power Cords, Adapters, and Surge Protectors so if you would like know more about them, here are some useful links:
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# 11 Fresh Water Hose
To Drink Or Not To Drink?
That Is The Question!
You would think this is another “No Brainer” right? I mean most of us have drank from a garden hose before. It’s the same thing, right? Well, I hate to tell you that not all hoses are created equal. Your run-of-the-mill garden hose is actually not safe to drink from; it is not regulated by the Safe Drinking Water Act and can contain toxic materials that are harmful to humans. Who Knew?
Keep It Fresh
Especially in new Campers and RVs, the freshwater tank primed, sanitized and ready to store clean water, which is safe for Human consumption. In other words, you don’t want to hook up a hose that can, and will, negate all of that. You want to be sure to look for an RV safe freshwater hose which is NSF (National Standard Foundation) certified.
This is why it has been put on the “NEED” list. I don’t want you to just go out to your local hardware store and buy some regular garden hose to hook up to your Freshwater Tank. However, while you’re at the store, it would be a GREAT idea to pick up a plastic tub with a lock tight lid in order to store your Freshwater Hose and accessories. That’s not a “Need” though. Just a suggestion.
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# 12 Water Filter
Why do you “NEED” a water filter?
As mentioned before with getting a Camper & RV safe NSF certified Freshwater hose, especially upon the purchase of your New Camper or RV, your Freshwater Tank is already clean and sanitized and ready for use. Why would you want to put possibly contaminated or un-safe water in there?
This is where the water filter comes into play. When, you take your Camper out exploring various places, you don’t really know what the water quality is like in these areas. Take Flint Michigan and Bridgeport Texas for example. Two completely different climates and regions of the United States. Flint is located with in a State surrounded by some of the most majestic Fresh water Lakes, yet located within the town itself, people who live there still cannot safely drink their municipal water. Bridgeport Texas is a small rural town far away from any big city, yet their water supply is continuously being contaminated by run off into their local water source from up stream cities, towns, and graze lands.
The point I am trying to make is, you want to make sure you are filling your own personal Freshwater Tanks up with good, clean water. Yet, you cannot be sure that the water being supplied to you IS good, clean water.
What Type To Choose?
Good news is that you have options with the type of filter you can get. They of course range from simple in-line water filters to high end triple filtration systems with UV light sanitation options. Which ever you choose, know that even the simplest filtration system, you are making sure your fresh water supply is just that, FRESH.
Not to mention, by keeping your Freshwater Tanks filled with clean water, not only are you ensuring you and your family are safe to use it for cooking, cleaning and drinking, but you are also making sure your Camper or RV water system is working properly. Your Camper or RV probably has a water pump and water heater in it. If the water has sediment in it, think of what it is doing to your water pump and water heater.
A couple good links to check out about the Different Filtration Systems are listed below if you need a little more information to make the best educated decision that works for you, your budget and your Camper or RV.
Yeah, But Is My Freshwater Tank Really Clean?
I also want to address the fact that, sometimes, you might not know 100% that your Freshwater Tank IS clean and sanitized. Or, you might not have installed a filter everywhere you went. Or, you left water in your tank and not sure if sediments or crazy new strain of bacteria has grown in there. Well, there is an answer for that as well.
Here is a link explaining how to clean out your Freshwater Tank to help put your mind at ease.
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# 13 Water Regulator
Why on earth do you “NEED” a Water Regulator?
You have an insurance policy for your Camper or RV right? Well, think of having a water regulator as a type of insurance on your Camper or RVs water system.
Just like you don’t really know what the water quality is like at every campground you visit, you have no idea how strong or weak the water supply is. It’s not crazy to think that some campgrounds may have water pressure that can be upwards of 150 psi. Seeing as though most Campers and RVs plumbing systems are not rated to handle that high of pressure, you want to make sure you don’t end up blowing a gasket or seem cracking somewhere in the system. To be on the safe side, you want your water pressure to be anywhere between 50 to 60 psi. This is why having a water regulator is a “Need” item to have in your Camper or RV.
Again, there are many types of regulators on the market and plenty of campers that have expressed different views on what type of water regulator you should use. The one thing Camper Trailer and RV owners mostly agree upon is having a water regulator is a must have item to add onto your water system hook up.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Regardless of what type of water pressure regulator you use; the water pressure regulator should be connected directly to the campgrounds City water connection. Any in-line water filter and your drinking water hose should then be connected to the water pressure regulator, this will prevent them from being damaged.
Here are some useful links to get you started on a more in-depth look into water regulators.
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# 14 Extra Water Hose for Waste Tank Flushing
Hoses Hoses Everywhere
Hopefully by now you have a good idea of Why you “Need” to have a separate hose to use when you are flushing out your waste tanks. To be on the safe side though, I’ll do a quick reminder.
There is a big difference between the run-of-the-mill garden hose and Camper & RV safe Freshwater hose. Mainly being that the regular garden hose is not NSF certified as being safe for use with human consumption. Another is, why? oh why?, would you think it is a good idea to use the same hose for your drinking, cooking, and cleaning water as you would to flush out your waste tanks?
Even if you took every precaution you could think of, some of the waste particles, bacteria, germs, and God knows what, will eventually make their way to the hose port flush valve hook up on the outside of your Camper or RV. The second you hook up your Freshwater hose to that port, you have compromised the hose and need to take the necessary steps to sanitize it.
It is a WAY better idea just to have a separate hose for this use. This can be a run-of-the-mill garden hose! However, don’t even think to use it to wash the Dog, or spray mud and dirt off your recreational equipment or yourself for that matter. Make sure you have another separate hose for those things as well.
- Having a third hose is not a “Need” just a strong friendly suggestion to help keep you safe and healthy.
- Another strong friendly suggestion is have a hose splitter to attach to the water hook up at your campsite. This way you can have one side for your Freshwater and another for your other hoses. Again, not a “Need”, but it will help to keep everything separate and easier to use.
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# 15 Sewer Dump Hose: aka (The Stinky Slinky)
Dump It The Right Way
Pardon my French, but “No SH*T” you “Need” a sewer dump hose. How else are you supposed to safely drain all that waste from your Black & Grey water tanks?
Well unfortunately there are people out their who will just drive their Camper or RV off somewhere to some undisclosed location and just open the waste gate valve and let all that sh*t pour out. GROSS!
For Real Human Beings like you and me, we require some way of safely transporting this Biological Hazardous Waste from our storage tanks to a designated septic system or a city sanitary sewer line. Not a storm sewer! (I’m talking to you Cousin Eddie from National Lampoons Christmas Vacation). That is with the use of a sewer dump hose.
Like with most things, there are many styles and types to choose from. The main take away is that you do “Need” one.
If you are looking for more information on sewer hoses or how to clean and maintain your storage tanks, here are a few links for you.
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# 16 Clear Sewer Hose Elbow Adapter
Make Sure To Flush It Out Clean
Dumping out your waste tanks is never a glorious job, but a necessary one. However, we can not assume that everything is cleared out just by listening to rush of running waste water through the sewer dump hose. Sometimes you need to have a visual confirmation that all the water has stopped flowing and most of the solids have been flushed out. So how do you do that?
Well, you could simply take your chances and pull the hose up from the in-ground receiver dumping port and take a look. Risking waste water splashing out on you, and then having to stick your face over the end of the hose and getting a nose full of noxious smells. Or you can be safe and take a look through the clear adapter attached to the end of the sewer dump hose. I’d choose that second one. Not only is it, well, less gross, it’s also a lot safer to see clearer Grey water eventually stop flowing through the adapter before you pull the hose up.
Again, if you are unsure of the proper use and ways to use a dump hose, I’d refer you to the links given above with the previous “Needed” item.
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# 17 Sewer Dump Hose Ramp
But WHY?
This may not be seen as a necessary “Need” because let’s face it, unless you are at a campground where you have a full hook up available and your sewer dump hose is attached at the campsite, you probably will not use it. If you are a new owner of a Camper Trailer or RV and have never had the luxury of waiting in line at the dump station, you won’t understand. So, let me give you a quick picture.
When your stay at the campground is complete and your campsite did not have a sewer hookup, you will need to pull your Camper or RV into an area where others like yourself need to take the time to dump your Black and Grey water tanks in a designated area. If you leave on a busy day, there are many of you waiting in line. Each one desperately just wanting to get home at this point. Each one watching you. Waiting for you to get done. The last thing you are going to do is set your sewer hose ramp up to hold the hose while you dump your tanks. Nope! You’re just going to hook your hose up and dump, rinse out, secure your hose away, and go.
What its Purpose Actually Is
Basically the Sewer Dump Hose Ramp keeps your hose off the ground with a steady decline from your Camper waste gate dumping valve port to the sewage dumping port inlet in the ground. As always, there are a number of different styles and types out there, so I’ll let you figure out what will suit your needs the best.
These ramps do provide a few good purposes though. It keeps your dump hose off the ground, protecting it from getting dirt, debris or moisture collecting on the outside, helping to prevent any cracking or small holes being punctured into it. It also help people from accidently stepping on it because it is up off the ground. Plus with the steady decline ensures that the waste is flowing in the right direction.
Many campgrounds with full hookup accommodations require that you have a sewer hose ramp for these reasons. Plus with the hose being off the ground, any small leaks will be noticed faster because the hose itself will not be covering any wet spots on the ground. Hopefully leading you to stop any dumping and remedy any problems with the hose before too much wastewater soaks into the ground
So is it a “Need”? Yes & No.
Yes, as it is better to have it and use it when you can or are required to.
No, because sometimes, for the sake of being courteous to other campers in line, you are not going to use it. Again, better to have it and not need it, then need it and not have it in this instance.
Here is a link to basically the same information given here, but also some reviews of recommended sewer hose ramps, if you are interested.
Campfirestoriesandsmore.com
# 18 Basic Tool Kit
It's Just A Good Idea
Even when you at home it is a good idea to have a basic tool kit handy. So why not keep one in your Camper or RV?
I can’t even tell you how many times I’ve been camping only to run into a situation where if I had the right tool a stressful moment wouldn’t have occurred. Now you don’t have to have every single tool required to fix every single situation that could occur, but having the basics will at least get you by until you can get to fixing whatever problem the right way.
There are plenty of blogs and websites out there that recommend a variety of tools to keep with you. However, you really need to take the time and think about what you are willing to fix and work with. Some people just won’t work with electricity or plumbing. Which is alright. You don’t have to be an expert or know how to fix everything. God knows there are plenty of “How To” videos on YouTube for you to reference. Never the less, having some of the tools on hand means you have the right equipment to fix a problem, and who knows, if you can’t or won’t fix something, you might be able to bribe someone from a nearby campsite who is comfortable fixing things to help you out. The camping community is full of friendly strangers willing to help.
Here Are Some Tool Recommendations To Start You Off With Your Tool Kit:
- Duct Tape: Always number One Must Have
2. Pencils; with sharpener
3. Screw drivers; and assortment of Flat head and Phillips
4. Pliers; Needle Nose and Regular
5. Adjustable Wrench; multiple sizes if you can
6. Socket Set
7. Hammer/Mallet
8. Allen Wrenches
9. Utility Knife
10. Tape Measure
11. Power Drill and Drill/Screw Bits: (optional Socket Adapters)
12. Speed Square/Straight Edge Ruler
13. Wire Cutters/Stripper
14. Electrical Tape
15. Hand Saw
16. Hand Axe/Hatchet
17. Utility Light(s)
18. Air pressure gauge
19.Tire Patch Kit
20. Zip Ties
21. Rope/String/Bungees
22. WD40 or 3-in-One oil
Again, these are just suggested items to keep in your tool kit. You may not want to use all of them or need to use all of them, but at least you have them. Just make sure you do have a designated tool kit for your Camper or RV. Trying to constantly transport tools back and forth from your garage or shop to your Camper or RV each time you go camping, you are bound to forget something.
Campfirestoriesandsmore.com
# 19 Work Gloves, Rubber Gloves & Safety Glasses
Safety First
You may be asking why these are not part of the Tool Kit. The way I look at it is that these are not Tools or a “Thing” to Fix anything. These are items to protect yourself. Not only when you are using these tools, but also for performing other tasks around your Camper or RV.
Protect Yourself
Having an assortment of work gloves, a box of rubber gloves and safety glasses is definitely a “NEED”. Think about every safety video or instructional video you have ever watched. If it is a reputable video and not just Bubba Joe Redneck video, they probably mention wearing protective gear when performing a task.
The same should be when do things around the campsite. Even something as simple as lowering your trailer onto your Ball Hitch, mistakes can be made and fingers can easily be pinched. If you have good quality work gloves on, chances are you will still get hurt but not nearly as bad and with little to no blood. Or when you’re cutting wood for your evening fire, those safety glasses will come in handy when pieces of wood start splintering all over the place. Not to mention having rubber gloves on when handling your sewer dump hose. No one wants to get that stuff on them. Better to be safe then sorry and enjoy your camping trip. Then having to run to the ER because of some dumb mistake.
Not to mention, if you have little ones running around, you should be setting a Great example for them. After all they’re always watching and learning from you, even when you don’t think they are.
Campfirestoriesandsmore.com
GOT IT ALL...
All Set And Ready To Go Camping
So, there you have it. These are the things you “NEED” to have in your Camper before you go camping. Some of the items may already be included with your Camper or RV, so you won’t have to worry about purchasing them, but these are the most important things that you should have and know how to properly use before you go camping. Most everything else should be considered creature comforts or luxuries to have on hand when using your Camper or RV.
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